The only thing I knew about fiberglass was what you got from the little kit that was used to patch a hole in an old canoe. You know, they came with a small patch of fiberglass fabric, and small bottle of resin and a smaller bottle of hardener that was added to the resin. I figgured I better do a little more research on the subject before I attempted to make the nose trim so off to Google I went. I found Fiber Glast Corporation They have a lot of helpful information on their website for newbies like me and they offer anything you need for fiberglass fabrication in small enough quantities so you don't feel like you have to go into the fiberglass manufacturing business. I ordered the supplies that I learned from their website that I would need for my project. I would have to build a mock up or "mule" as we call it in the fiberglass business, of the nose trim. For this I need a hood to work on. I just happened to have a couple unrestorable 1961 hoods out back. I took one of them and cut off about 8" of the front of it and brought it into the shop. I secured it to a couple saw horses with clamps to keep it steady while I worked on it. If you didn't know it, the "bird" on the hood of the Italien has about a 6" wider wing span than the production cars. From the pictures on the previous page, I could pinpoint very close to the exact width by lining up the wingtips of the bird with the vertical lines in the grill below, and the hood scoop above. I left the production stainless nose trim and eyebrows in place on the "mule" and I took a production Hood Bird and clipped it's wings. I cut them off on both sides of the neck feathers. I removed the pegs from the back of the bird and adhered the pieces on the hood with epoxy. Then I perforated the "mule" with a bunch of holes in the area that the nose trim would cover so that when I built up the "mule" with body filler, it would ooze into the holes and be sure to stick firmly to the hood section. I built up the area between where I spread the pieces with body filler, and using some 1/8" floor tile as a thickness gauge, I filled between the wingtips and the eyebrows on each side with body filler as well as down to the stainless trim. Since the finished product is going to turn out exactly like the Mule it is necessary to finish the Mule so it looks like the finished procuct you want. After I was satisfied that there were no major imperfections in the Mule I sprayed 2 coats of High Build Primer on it and then sanded it out with 180 grit paper. That was followed by 2 more coats of HBP which was followed by wet sanding with 600 grit paper. Next I sprayed 2 coats of black acrylic enamel on the Mule so it would have a nice smooth shiney surface. Then I was ready to make the mold. I had to fence off all around the Mule so the Resin wouldn't all run onto the floor. I used cardboard and masking tape to build a "box" around the trim area that I wanted to duplicate. When that was ready, I coated the Mule with a couple coats of "Mold Release Agent" letting each coat dry the prescribed amount of time. When dry, I spread over the release agent a couple coats "White Gel Coat". After that was dry to the touch it is ready to build up the resin and I spread about 1/32" thickness of Resin inside the mold over the gel coat. The resin sets quickly and was followed by another light coat of resin in which I embedded a layer of fiberglass fabric. Earlier I fabricated a metal plate with 3 studs welded into it that line up with the holes in the hood where the Bird Emblem attaches. I perforated this plate so the resin would hold it firmly in place inside the fiberglass trim piece. I embedded into the next coat of Resin followed by another layer of fiberglass fabric. I purchased some threaded inserts used for woodworking with the barbs on them to hold them in a piece of wood when they are tapped in. I cut off the front strip on the underside of another junk hood that has the holes in it where the screws attach the stainless hood nose and eyebrow trim. I put one of thefastener inserts at each hole and inserted a screw into it to hold it in place on the strip. The strip fit perfectly inside the mold at the front edge and I poured Resin in all around it. After The Resin set up, I removed the screws and have perfectly placed fasteners to attach the new trim piece to the front of The ITALIEN'S hood. Now comes the hard part. I had to let it set up over night before I could remove it from the mold to see how it looked, and I was anxious. It was a long night. I had a little difficulty getting one end out of the mold and it took a couple small chunks out of it. Nothing serious so a little body filler was used to repair it. Then I gave it a couple coats of primer and wet sanded it with 1200 grit paper which is the finish the Chrome shop wanted. The plastic insert for the neck feathers was easy as that area is the same as the production birds so I simply cut the neck feathers from a typical plastic insert. For the wing insert I used a piece of clear plexiglas I put a new blade in my table saw, lowered it way down so it only stuck up about 1/32" and turned it at a 45 degree angle so just the points on the edge of the plade stuck up. I scored the back of the plexiglass numerous times advancing the piece slightly each time to get the grooved back like the production pieces Then I cut it to fit inside the Bird Frame, I had to heat the plexiglas to bend it to fit, and then I mixed up some paint and painted the back side. I all turned out pretty nice and since it was all a little different than what I've usually done, the whole fabrication was a lot of fun. BACK Click here to go to the pictures of the fabrication Back to TOM MARUSKA CARS |